[Richard Hass Participant Posts: 2]

Papers & Media

on: April 30, 2023 at 2:19 am

More than once, I’ve ruined large format prints when trying to remove the curl “memory” from the roll. For example, a 24 x 36 print on Canson Rag Photographique printed recently developed what amounts to creases, presumably caused by the print-flattening technique I was using. In this example, I let the print to dry for an hour before handling. Since the print was now in a roll, I laid it face-down on a clean surface and then carefully unrolled it, using weights to hold down one end as I unrolled it. Weight was applied to hold the print flat overnight.

The next day, there was evidence of unevenness. That is, what looked like a wave running from edge-to-edge across the paper in a couple spots.

So, I tried back rolling using a homemade device with a 2″ diameter tube and roughly 40″ of cloth to wrap the print in. This made everything much worse. Specifically, more of these waves. My efforts at back rolling weren’t successful in any event. The paper still has a memory and still wants to curl, to some extent.
So my questions are:
1. Do prints need to be 100% dry before back rolling?
2. When back rolling, it there a preferred tube diameter or process?
3. Any other suggestions to avoid causing deformation when printing from roll-stock?

Thanks!

[Kevin Raber Silver Member Posts: 1163]

Re: Removing curl memory after printing from rolls

Reply #1 on: April 30, 2023 at 7:20 am

The solution I use is a D-roller and you can purchase these.

https://www.itsupplies.com/D-Roller-Paper-De-Curler-s/272.htm

You can also google d-roller and come up with video and sources. I use these with my big prints coming off the Epson 9570 and Canon P2000/. After you d-roll sit them on the table flat and weight them on the corners and give them about a day. Usually works just fine.

The issues you may be having might be related to paper and how tight it was on the core of the paper roll.

Paper weights. Leather filled with lead shot…..https://www.framedestination.com/prod/s/leather-print-and-paper-weight.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwo7iiBhAEEiwAsIxQEVumtvr77zQVxBBnXh3lkCrvp9tpEhDJHkoWkEj-urR04qJ8KoKn6BoCtosQAvD_BwE

Hope that helps.

Kevin Raber
Publisher, photoPXL

[Mark D Segal Silver Member Posts: 781]

Re: Removing curl memory after printing from rolls

Reply #2 on: April 30, 2023 at 9:14 am

I think the literal “core” of your problem may be the small diameter of the roller you are using. I recommend a minimum three-inch core. I solved this problem for 10 bucks using a three-inch core from a roll of used Epson roll paper and a Mylar sheet taped onto it, plus two pieces of two-sided Velcro to hold the rolled-up print closed. So far so good. I use it mainly with Epson Legacy Platine paper.

Mark D Segal Author: "Scanning Workflows with SilverFast 8, SilverFast HDR, Adobe Photoshop Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop". Please check the PhotoPXL Store for availability.

[Richard Hass Participant Posts: 2]

Re: Removing curl memory after printing from rolls

Reply #3 on: April 30, 2023 at 10:19 am

Thanks for the suggestions. The BIENFANG de-roller Kevin suggests has a 1-1/2″ roller, which is smaller than the one I’m having problems with. I’ve heard good things about this de-roller (and some negative ones re: build quality) so I think I will try crafting a new de-roller with a larger diameter roller (~3″ as Mark suggests). I’ve been using a cloth material attached to the roller with gaffer’s tape. Mylar is thinner and should help eliminate the possibility of a hump deforming the print when the print rolls over the seam. I’ll try that. If this doesn’t work, it may be time to get the BIENFANG de-roller.

The lead-shot bags Kevin suggests help, too. I have a couple and use them for flattening as well as framing.

Thanks again!

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