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Focus technique for MF landscape work. . .on: July 26, 2019 at 11:02 pm
I have a new focus process I’ve been playing with when using tilt:
- With the lens wide open, dial in 1 degree of tilt, regardless of focal length.
- Zoom in and focus on the thing up close in the frame (usually at the bottom). Note where the helical is.
- Zoom in and focus on the thing in the distance (usually at the top). Note where the helical is.
- Set a new focus point right in between the two focus points (i.e. split the angle in half).
- Zoom back into the thing in the front (at the bottom).
- If you had to dial out to a farther distance for that thing in the distance (at the top), add more tilt until the thing in front comes in focus.
- If you had to dial in to a closer distance for that thing in the distance, subtract tilt until the thing in front comes in focus.
- Check the thing in the distance. It is usually spot on. If not, repeat.
- Set the lens at the f-stop you want and shoot!
The easy way to remember Step 5 is, “Focus out, tilt out; focus in, tilt in.”
Except for macro work or the camera very close to the ground, I haven’t found a case yet where I had to repeat or fine tune anything. There are a few reasons why I think this works regardless of focal length: First, even though 1 degree has a much lower Scheimpflug line with longer lenses, the longer lens’ narrow view doesn’t see the ground until way out in front of the camera, so there is plenty of room for the plane of focus to penetrate up through the ground by the time it enters the field of view. Second, since more tilt decreases DoF, it helps to have as little tilt as possible.
I’ve seen that method mentioned before. I’ve been using Lumariver DOF app. Not only does it give you a starting point for the amount of tilt, but also focus wedge angles for whatever aperture your using. It also lets you enter sensor size and pixel pitch for different cameras and lens information to give you Hyperfocal distances.
I’ve been using Hyperfocal distance as a means of focus on GFX100s for landscapes till I become more familiar with the various lenses I have for it.Re: GFX 100 vertical grip Lock SwitchReply #1 on: July 26, 2019 at 3:18 pm
”Too many” folk were reporting either very loose, or non-functional vertical grip Lock Switch function on the GFX 100. I think someone here posted that about their camera.
Fuji is aware, has serial number ranges that could have the problem and a repair strategy:
If your camera is in the SN range, yet seem OK, there are two things to know:
- It “May have been” addressed before shipment and you can call Fuji to make sure it is OK.
- If it seems OK but wasn’t addressed before shipment, it could go bad and even shed small parts into the camera which could cause a “camera to malfunction.”
PS – Kevin, this might be a partial answer to one of my queries on your “ask Fuji” list re the GFX 100 in another thread here!
My serial number is within the problem range. I called and spoke to a Fuji representative that told me that, even though the switch problem is not currently manifested, I should send it in within a year from the purchase date. Free shipping and a return within 48hrs after receipt. Additionally, Fuji will extend their original one year warranty an extra year at no additional cost.
Re: New PXLtorial – The Sony a7r IV and Why I Am Buying ItReply #2 on: July 26, 2019 at 2:33 pm
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Jim Sanderson.
Hmmm, I’m on the fence about upgrading from the r iii to the r iv. The reason I would upgrade would be the better focus programs in the r iv and the increased mp count in APS-C mode for birding. I’m not sure that 61mp v 42mp would make that much of a difference when using ISO settings of 400 and above for birds in flight. I do not see a benefit for the travel photos I take. I use my Fuji GFX system for landscapes, and studio endeavors. Any thoughts? I was thinking the best course might be to wait and see what the new a9 offering will bring…..